Kind gestures and heart warming pleasures: Paphos Fruit and Vegetable Market, Cyprus

A gift of Cyclamen and Hyacinth

This morning I was given this beautiful bunch of wild flowers; pale pink cyclamen and blue hyacinth with their heady and complementary perfumes – for me an expression of pure  joy in anticipation of Spring.

One of the market stall ladies at the Saturday Paphos fruit and vegetable market presented them to me as I was buying fresh coriander and other greens from her.   She knows I love flowers and regularly buy from her when they are available.  I was very touched by this gesture.

Not surprisingly, my Saturday morning visits to the market are one of my favourite times of the week.   I spread my shopping out so I buy from six or seven different men and women vendors; all very friendly and welcoming as I have been buying from them over the many years of my visits.

The Paphos fruit and vegetable market has had different home spaces over the years and is now situated in a custom built structure in the parking area near the Unesco listed heritage site of the Hammam Baths in the old town.

Apart from the local producers of fruits and vegetables, a cheese maker brings his refrigerated van with goats’ milk Halloumi and Anari cheese from the Akamas area in the agricultural area north west of Paphos where many of the goat and sheep farms are maintained.   Goats’ milk and cheese are very much a local staple, which we enjoy.

The market is full of citrus fruit now as this is the season for oranges and clementines and lemons.  All are juicy and delicious and always a staple in our market shopping.  I can’t help but think of the old nursery rhyme: “Oranges and Lemons say the Bells of St Clemens…” ( words from an old English rhyme with origins in the 17th century or earlier).

Oranges and Lemons – Paphos Fruit and Vegetable market

The Paphos fruit and vegetable market is in many ways one of the vestiges of how life used to be.  It’s a bit like seeing the small herd of goats that is kept in a nearby roadside area and are driven by the goat herd up into the hills each morning and returned late afternoon.    We used to see many goat herds in the area in years gone by but rarely see them as house building is gradually overtaking the agricultural areas near the coast.   Even this small herd near us is carefully guarded by the goatherd and kept largely out of sight.   He would resent any attempt to photograph them.   I completely understand this.

My concern for the future of the market is that all the stall holders are middle aged and we’ve all been getting older together.  I rarely see the next generation there.   I don’t think the young people see this in their future.

The current market location is a perfect spot as apart from being on the edge of the immediate parking area, the elevator to the street level is there and one ascends to the plaza area of Cafe Nero, which has to have one of the best views out to sea in Paphos.

From my earliest travels as a child with my family, my parents always sought out the local markets and continuing this practice is an enduring habit.

This is how we spend the first couple of hours of a Saturday morning in Cyprus: market stall shopping for ‘garden/field/orchard to market fresh produce’ followed by a coffee overlooking the sea – one of life’s small but heart warming pleasures!

Elizabethsvines

Wine and perfume: olfactory cousins

 

We are sitting in a rooftop restaurant in Rome, enjoying a glass of Prosecco while we read the dinner menu in a leisurely manner and enjoy the view.

Rooftop view of Rome

Evening rooftop view of Rome

Our reverie is interrupted when we observe the people at the next table reject the bottle of wine they have just ordered. I haven’t seen this too many times and I am intrigued by what occurred. Was it the aroma or the taste of the wine that was not to their liking or both? I don’t want to add to their dining drama by asking what happened, so the reason will remain a mystery as far as we are concerned.

The scene runs through my head and I think about an amusing article I read recently by British wine writer Matthew Jukes about Viognier and the reactions his readers described of their past experience of tasting this type of wine. Aromas and taste experiences ranged from: “bubble-bath, loo spray, tinned fruit salad, plug-in air freshener or pick’n’ mix”.  I wonder if our dining neighbours experienced these or similarly disagreeable aromas when their eagerly awaited bottle of wine arrived. Matthew Jukes tells his readers that his recommendations of Viognier will not result in these unpalatable conclusions but rather lead them on an exotic and rewarding odyssey. I feel reassured.

About the same time that I noted Mr Jukes’ comments, I read an article in the Style section of Canada’s Globe and Mail newspaper about perfume entitled:  Message in a bottle, in which writer Nathalie Atkinson describes how perfume evokes memories. I have made similar comments previously about how wine evokes memories and past experiences for me. It seems the perfumes we wear and the aromas of wine we drink must be olfactory cousins.

In her article, Ms Atkinson refers to the work of psychologist and neuroscientist Dr Rachel Herz who says: ” Emotion is a central and fundamental feature of odour perception, odour learning and odour memory.” Dr Herz explains that the sense of smell is intrinsic to the most important dimensions of our lives.

Ms Atkinson also describes situations in which individuals have commissioned perfumes to replicate those worn by dead loved ones. The resulting perfume builds a bridge to a past memory. A very poignant reference is made to French actress, Catherine Deneuve who commissioned a perfume similar to that worn by her sister who died at an early age. This perfume became her personal bridge to her late sister.

In an airline duty free shopping magazine, a scent guide provided by an industry expert refers to the following perfume characteristics: floral, oriental, woodsy, aromatic and fresh.

Inflight magazine scent guide

Inflight magazine scent guide

The Wine and Spirit Educational Trust (WSET), refers to aroma characteristics of wine using similar language: fruit, floral, spice, vegetal, oak, other.

These similarities further emphasize this familial relationship between perfume and the aromas of wine. No wonder people are asked not to wear perfume to wine tastings.

Refining one’s sense of smell and developing a ‘nose’ to fully appreciate perfume and wine takes years of training and practise.

I am continuing my apprenticeship.

 

References:

Matthew Jukes, wine writer.   http://www.MatthewJukes.com

Globe and Mail   http://www.globeandmail.com

Nathalie Atkinson, journalist     http://www.nathalieatkinson.com

Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET)   http://www.wsetglobal.com

Dr Rachel Herz, neuroscientist,     http://www.rachelherz.com