Kind gestures and heart warming pleasures: Paphos Fruit and Vegetable Market, Cyprus

A gift of Cyclamen and Hyacinth

This morning I was given this beautiful bunch of wild flowers; pale pink cyclamen and blue hyacinth with their heady and complementary perfumes – for me an expression of pure  joy in anticipation of Spring.

One of the market stall ladies at the Saturday Paphos fruit and vegetable market presented them to me as I was buying fresh coriander and other greens from her.   She knows I love flowers and regularly buy from her when they are available.  I was very touched by this gesture.

Not surprisingly, my Saturday morning visits to the market are one of my favourite times of the week.   I spread my shopping out so I buy from six or seven different men and women vendors; all very friendly and welcoming as I have been buying from them over the many years of my visits.

The Paphos fruit and vegetable market has had different home spaces over the years and is now situated in a custom built structure in the parking area near the Unesco listed heritage site of the Hammam Baths in the old town.

Apart from the local producers of fruits and vegetables, a cheese maker brings his refrigerated van with goats’ milk Halloumi and Anari cheese from the Akamas area in the agricultural area north west of Paphos where many of the goat and sheep farms are maintained.   Goats’ milk and cheese are very much a local staple, which we enjoy.

The market is full of citrus fruit now as this is the season for oranges and clementines and lemons.  All are juicy and delicious and always a staple in our market shopping.  I can’t help but think of the old nursery rhyme: “Oranges and Lemons say the Bells of St Clemens…” ( words from an old English rhyme with origins in the 17th century or earlier).

Oranges and Lemons – Paphos Fruit and Vegetable market

The Paphos fruit and vegetable market is in many ways one of the vestiges of how life used to be.  It’s a bit like seeing the small herd of goats that is kept in a nearby roadside area and are driven by the goat herd up into the hills each morning and returned late afternoon.    We used to see many goat herds in the area in years gone by but rarely see them as house building is gradually overtaking the agricultural areas near the coast.   Even this small herd near us is carefully guarded by the goatherd and kept largely out of sight.   He would resent any attempt to photograph them.   I completely understand this.

My concern for the future of the market is that all the stall holders are middle aged and we’ve all been getting older together.  I rarely see the next generation there.   I don’t think the young people see this in their future.

The current market location is a perfect spot as apart from being on the edge of the immediate parking area, the elevator to the street level is there and one ascends to the plaza area of Cafe Nero, which has to have one of the best views out to sea in Paphos.

From my earliest travels as a child with my family, my parents always sought out the local markets and continuing this practice is an enduring habit.

This is how we spend the first couple of hours of a Saturday morning in Cyprus: market stall shopping for ‘garden/field/orchard to market fresh produce’ followed by a coffee overlooking the sea – one of life’s small but heart warming pleasures!

Elizabethsvines

Hidden Culinary Gems of Cyprus: Anari Cheese

In the heat of the summer, who wants to do much cooking?  Its more about finding some shade and maybe jumping into a pool surrounded by flowers; like here at a friend’s garden.  I recently finished this semi abstract painting…

A Cypriot friend, a self confessed ‘foodie’,  suggests that I try a local Cypriot whey cheese renowned in the Paphos area.  At the next Paphos Saturday morning fruit and vegetable market I enquire about this cheese from my usual vendor and discover she makes both fresh halloumi and anari cheese!    Not only does she make this cheese but she and her daughter recommend how to serve it!   Perfect!

With the anari cheese and recipe in hand, off we go for a coffee and then I prepare the cheese for a salad lunch – perfect for hot summer days.

Anari is made in a large round – similar to how some soft goat cheese is made in France and elsewhere.  The idea is to slice the cheese into rounds for serving.   In the local presentation, the round of anari  is then covered with a combination of carob syrup and honey and served in this way.    We generally eat very few sweet things but I did have pomegranate syrup in the kitchen for cooking as well as honey.  So on went the pomegranate and honey covering for the slice of anari cheese.      The response!    Absolutely delicious and surprisingly not sweet.

if I were to recommend a wine, I would choose an unoaked Chardonnay or a Viognier to complement the creamy,  honeyed flavours of the Anari cheese prepared in this way.

Fresh anari will keep in the fridge for up to a week, so we enjoy a slice of cheese presented in this honeyed way several times!
Ricotta is a similar cheese so this will be an alternative when I can’t buy fresh anari and it will be interesting to make a comparison.

Simplifying meals is important on hot summer days!

Kali Orexi! / Bob Appétit!

Hidden culinary gems of Cyprus: Zucchini flowers

These edible Zucchini flowers now in season and for sale at the weekly Paphos market catch my eye a couple of weeks before I decide to experiment with stuffed Zucchini flowers.

I enjoy these delicacies in restaurants.   When you buy the flowers you realize how fragile they are.  The flowers need to be prepared and cooked quickly before they spoil.

Here is the approach I take,  based on looking at various preparation references and combining different recipe ideas..

First,  it’s important to remove the stamen or pistil from within the flowers. I also gently rinse each flower to check there are no insects hiding there!

Second, I make up a recipe from the fridge with bacon and mushrooms, chopped and sautéed.   Add this to a soft French goat cheese with lots of chopped mint.

Third,  I carefully stuff the flowers with the mixture and cook on a cookie sheet in a hot oven for about 15 minutes.

Fourth,  the great tasting!

Success!   The stuffed zucchini flowers taste good.   The cooked flowers add a subtle sweetness to the dish and the mint is delicious and typical of Cypriot food.       Only eat the flower petals not the stems or the green leaves.

For a wine pairing, I suggest a Tsangarides organic Chardonnay, which complements the creaminess of the stuffing well or perhaps a Viognier.

What would I do differently next time?   From the recommendation of a Cypriot friend who knows about local dishes,  instead of using a French goat cream cheese, (which is what I had in the fridge when I decided to make this dish!j or perhaps an Italian Ricotta as an alternative, I would use fresh Anari, which is a fresh mild whey cheese produced in Cyprus and made from goat or sheep milk.   The authentic recipe!

Kali Orexi! // Bon Appétit!

References:  Tsangarides Winery   Tsangarideswinery.com

Various on line references about the preparation of stuffed zucchini flowers

Christmas Clementines send Season’s Greetings!

There’s something about oranges, clementines, and mandarins that always me think of winter and the Christmas holidays.

Perhaps it’s remembering mediterranean holidays and city streets lined with fruit trees covered with oranges that resemble vibrant holiday decorations.    Sweet memories in lockdown times.

All these thoughts of clementines inspire me to consider an orange cake to start the holiday celebrations.   When a friend sends a recipe for Nigella Lawson’s Clementine Cake the culinary decision is easy!  It’s a great recipe for anyone watching their gluten intake, as it calls for almond flour.    I limit the amount of sugar in any cooking I do and so substitute stevia for the sugar in the recipe.    (A quick google check suggests the ratio of 8:1 sugar to stevia.)       Another adjustment is to make mini cakes rather than a loaf cake.   This makes it so easy to have a just a small taste of something sweet to finish a meal.

These mini cakes are moist and have the flavour of orange.   I still want more orange flavour and decide an orange syrup is essential!    I combine a couple of recipes to make this syrup which is essentially:  juice of 4 oranges and 1 lemon,  Agave syrup to taste instead of sugar.   I simmer that combination and allow it to reduce in volume and add a tablespoon of Grand Marnier –  the aromatic cognac and orange liqueur combination – and some candied orange peel.  Result: yummy combination of mini clementine cake and orange syrup!

In wine and food pairing terms, a glass of Sauternes or another late harvest wine would be excellent or to start the celebrations, maybe continue with the taste of Grand Marnier Liqueur!

Happy Holidays and Season’s Greetings to all.

elizabethsvines

References:   Clementine Cake – Nigella Lawson   http://www.nigella.com