The Wine Winds of Change

 

Change is affecting the world of wine.   An overly simplistic statement with huge implications for wine makers and consumers.

On the one hand, various natural conditions such as climate, weather, draught and storms have affected vines and their productivity and on the other hand, consumers are increasingly seeking low and / or even non alcoholic wines and organic wines and beverages, and different packaging.   In addition, wine consumption rates are shifting with generational changes in drinking habits and with more focus on health in relation to consuming alcohol.   Challenging times.

Change always starts slowly and then builds momentum.    This acceleration is, I think, what we are seeing now.

Recently, we open some beautiful Bergerac and Bordeaux red wines from 2012.   Delicious and they have aged well.  I am conscious though of how heavy the bottles are.    Twelve years ago, we thought little of the weight of wine bottles, now the weight increasingly stands out.

On a recent flight, I notice that an English white wine is offered in cans.  Two interesting things here,  English wine for starters produced in sufficient quantity to be a flight offering and available in a small can.

I am introduced to Clarence, a still white wine produced by The Uncommon Wine of England company at 11% Alc.Vol.   I can’t resist trying it.   First taste is ok.   Second taste is slightly metallic.    I’m not used to drinking something from a can, not being either a beer drinker nor a soft drink consumer, so maybe this is par for the course.  I’m not sure.   The Flight Attendant asks me what I think of the wine when I leave the plane and my comment is A for effort in producing an English wine in a can, perhaps with more work needed on the taste end of things, in my opinion.   Casual packaging, perfect for a picnic.

In looking at The Uncommon Wine of England website, I see that they make an Elderflower and Cucumber White Wine Spritzer, which sounds intriguing.  Innovative things appear to be happening at this company.

In the white wine sector, its relatively easy to find wines at 11% Alc.Vol.  Some wineries are even producing 7% Alc. Vol.wines.

Producing low alcohol red wines is a challenge of a different magnitude.  This becomes clearer to me in speaking with Caro Feely, of Chateau Feely wines in Saussignac, Dordogne.  Many red wines in the region are 14% Alc.Vol.   At Chateau Feely, they are making a 12.5%  Alc.Vol. red wine, Vivacité, which is a big step in the direction of low alcohol red wines.   Caro and her husband Sean have been one of several wine makers at the forefront of the organic wine industry in the region.  They have been producing certified natural biodynamic wines since 2010.   This year they are celebrating 20 years as wine makers in the Dordogne, having moved to Saussignac in 2005.    Congratulations on achieving this milestone!

All of these changes and others in the wine industry are having a significant impact on vine growers and wine producers, many of whom may make major career decisions in response to them.

Keeping in step with or maybe a step ahead of the shifting sands will be an important strategy for the future.

Elizabethsvines

References:   Chateau Feely    chateaufeely.com

The Uncommon Wine of England.    wearetheuncommon.co.uk

Congratulations to Caro Feely, Chateau Feely, writing about Regenerative Agriculture

Caro, our friend and near neighbour in the Dordogne area of SW France has been writing about wine, and especially about building a biodynamic winery for some years.

Two of her books: Grape Expectations and Saving our Skins tell the engaging account of sheer hard work and determination that Caro, her husband Sean and their daughters continually invest in their winery.

This year, Caro takes the plunge and enters the Wine Writing Competition 2022 in the category of Regenerative Agriculture sponsored by the acclaimed wine writer Jancis Robinson.   Caro’s article is one of the 31 published essays and one of the 20 shortlisted essays from writers around the world.    A great accomplishment!

Here it is:  Regeneration – Changing our thinking by Caro Feely

https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/wwc22-caro-feely

I recommend reading this.    Caro describes regenerative as “…transforming our thinking from extractive, how much volume of wine and financial value can we generate, to how many benefits can we create, for nature, for us, for the wider community.  It is thinking circular rather than linear.”

The regeneration of land impacted by the Feely farming practices has resulted in one visible impact of increased biodiversity that we see:  increased numbers of beautiful wild orchids.

Jancis Robinson gives an overall comment about all the essay entries in this category of regeneration:  …”Having read them all, we are happy to say that we have come away feeling inspired by and confident in the strides that are being made in the fields of regenerative viticulture and sustainable winemaking.”

Congratulations to Caro for her inspiring article and also to Jancis Robinson and her team for initiating this global essay competitive process and encouraging wine writers.

Bravo! /Chapeau!

elizabethsvines

 

References

Caro Feely,  chateaufeely.com

Jancis Robinson    jancisrobinson.com