The Wine Winds of Change

 

Change is affecting the world of wine.   An overly simplistic statement with huge implications for wine makers and consumers.

On the one hand, various natural conditions such as climate, weather, draught and storms have affected vines and their productivity and on the other hand, consumers are increasingly seeking low and / or even non alcoholic wines and organic wines and beverages, and different packaging.   In addition, wine consumption rates are shifting with generational changes in drinking habits and with more focus on health in relation to consuming alcohol.   Challenging times.

Change always starts slowly and then builds momentum.    This acceleration is, I think, what we are seeing now.

Recently, we open some beautiful Bergerac and Bordeaux red wines from 2012.   Delicious and they have aged well.  I am conscious though of how heavy the bottles are.    Twelve years ago, we thought little of the weight of wine bottles, now the weight increasingly stands out.

On a recent flight, I notice that an English white wine is offered in cans.  Two interesting things here,  English wine for starters produced in sufficient quantity to be a flight offering and available in a small can.

I am introduced to Clarence, a still white wine produced by The Uncommon Wine of England company at 11% Alc.Vol.   I can’t resist trying it.   First taste is ok.   Second taste is slightly metallic.    I’m not used to drinking something from a can, not being either a beer drinker nor a soft drink consumer, so maybe this is par for the course.  I’m not sure.   The Flight Attendant asks me what I think of the wine when I leave the plane and my comment is A for effort in producing an English wine in a can, perhaps with more work needed on the taste end of things, in my opinion.   Casual packaging, perfect for a picnic.

In looking at The Uncommon Wine of England website, I see that they make an Elderflower and Cucumber White Wine Spritzer, which sounds intriguing.  Innovative things appear to be happening at this company.

In the white wine sector, its relatively easy to find wines at 11% Alc.Vol.  Some wineries are even producing 7% Alc. Vol.wines.

Producing low alcohol red wines is a challenge of a different magnitude.  This becomes clearer to me in speaking with Caro Feely, of Chateau Feely wines in Saussignac, Dordogne.  Many red wines in the region are 14% Alc.Vol.   At Chateau Feely, they are making a 12.5%  Alc.Vol. red wine, Vivacité, which is a big step in the direction of low alcohol red wines.   Caro and her husband Sean have been one of several wine makers at the forefront of the organic wine industry in the region.  They have been producing certified natural biodynamic wines since 2010.   This year they are celebrating 20 years as wine makers in the Dordogne, having moved to Saussignac in 2005.    Congratulations on achieving this milestone!

All of these changes and others in the wine industry are having a significant impact on vine growers and wine producers, many of whom may make major career decisions in response to them.

Keeping in step with or maybe a step ahead of the shifting sands will be an important strategy for the future.

Elizabethsvines

References:   Chateau Feely    chateaufeely.com

The Uncommon Wine of England.    wearetheuncommon.co.uk

English and Welsh Wines: A First Glance

I am idly glancing at the Cyprus Mail newspaper one day earlier this year and come across an article about English sparkling wines. In a moment of quiet reflection, I realize that I am mainly writing about French, Canadian and Cyprus wines but not paying attention to what is happening with wines in my homeland!  With United Kingdom wines now on my radar, I decide to look for an opportunity to try English and maybe Welsh wines on our next trip to the UK.

Such an opportunity presents itself this spring.   A visit to a favourite place in London, The Royal Academy of Arts, established in 1768 and housed at Burlington House in Piccadilly, followed by lunch with a long time friend at their new restaurant, The Keeper’s House, provides the perfect occasion.

An example of exhibitions at the RA - Royal Academy of Arts, London

An example of exhibitions at the RA – Royal Academy of Arts, London

We each have a glass of Chapel Down white wine, a clear, shining white with good acidity and full of apple flavours as befits a wine from the great English apple growing area of South East England.   This Pinot Blanc 2010 was a refreshing complement to our fish lunch.

Subsequent exploration of Chapel Down winery reveals that it is one of the top English wineries.   It won several trophies in the annual wine industry 2014 English and Welsh Wine of the Year Competition.   This competition is organized by the United Kingdom Vineyards Association (UKVA), and apparently is the only competition in the world judged entirely by Masters of Wine.

Chapel Down Winery - an English winery

Chapel Down Winery – an English winery

The United Kingdom Vineyard Association (UKVA) website is a mine of information. In reviewing it, I learn an important definition when considering wines from the United Kingdom.

“English or Welsh Wine is made from fresh grapes grown in England or Wales and produced in UK wineries.   All of the UKVA members grow grapes to produce this type of wine.

British Wine, however, is not the same thing at all.   It is the product of imported grapes or grape concentrate that is made into wine in Britain.   “British” wines are not wines as defined by the EU which specifies that wine can only be the product of fermented freshly crushed grapes.”   (UKVA website)

An important distinction to avoid making an unintentional wine faux pas when either buying or ordering UK wine.

But I digress.

Back to The Keeper’s House at the Royal Academy.   A conversation with an employee reveals an interesting twist to their menu preparation and wine and food selection.   They not only design their menus to reflect the changing seasons but also in some small way to reflect the essence of Royal Academy exhibitions.    Like most major art galleries, the Royal Academy restaurants take great pride in presenting good value food and wine selections.

The new seasonal menu is being developed and fine-tuned.  Along with the seasonal change in food selections, comes a change in wine offerings which helps showcase different wineries.

The new wine selection includes two wines from Davenport Winery in East Sussex. The Davenport Horsmonden 2013, is a dry white made from a blend of 5 grape varieties.   The wine notes indicate that there are nuances of lemon and nettles;  I can’t wait to taste this!

The selection also includes the Davenport Limney Estate sparking wine produced from Pinot Noir and Auxerrois.   Davenport is an organic winery and another prizewinner in the 2014 English and Welsh Wine of the Year Competition with their sparking wine the first organic sparking wine to win a trophy.

Davenport Vineyards - an English winery

Davenport Vineyards – an English winery

The next major Royal Academy exhibition runs from September 27 to December 14, 2014 and features the works of contemporary German artist, Anselm Kiefer who is an Honorary Royal Academician.  Some say his art is rooted in his beginnings: the end of the Second World War and the start of the new era in which we are still living.

Regarded as a colossus of contemporary art, and “one of the most imaginative, original and serious artists alive” (RA Website/The Guardian), this exhibition of the work of Anselm Kiefer has all the hallmarks of an intriguing visit.  A post-visit glass of quintessentially English wine will surely encourage a stimulating discussion.

So having had a brief introduction to English wines what about trying some Welsh wine I ask myself?

Our visit to the UK includes a brief visit to Wales and in particular to the wind swept beaches of the Gower Peninsular in South Wales.

What better place to taste some Welsh wine!   We do this at Fairyhill hotel and restaurant located in Reynoldston, Gower.   A review in Moneyweek Magazine/The Guardian recently noted: “for foodies and wine lovers, delightfully informal Fairyhill is a Welsh institution”.

 

Fairyhill is famous for their deep-fried cockle canapés which are served in a small dish in the same way as one would serve peanuts.    These are a favourite of mine not only because they are delicious but also because they remind me of my childhood visits to Wales.    We enjoy the cockles as we decide on a wine to drink with dinner.   To pursue the idea of sampling Welsh wines, we order a bottle of Rosé from Ancre Hill Vineyard, Monmouth, a more recent winery whose grapes were first planted in 2006.   A light (11% ALC/VOL) wine with strawberry overtones, this Rosé could be a summer sipping wine.

Ancre Hill Vineyard - Monmouth, Wales

Ancre Hill Vineyard – Monmouth, Wales

Fine Wines Direct UK, who represent Ancre Hill Vineyard, describes the winery as follows:

“The Ancre Hill Estate, which is situated in Monmouth has a unique micro/meso climate, on average it gets a quarter of the rainfall of Cardiff and plenty of sunshine hours to ripen the grapes. With huge plans to farm Bio-dynamically and with plans to build a state of the art winery, this award winning Welsh vineyard continue to grow from strength to strength, with the first vintage of the Pinot Noir now available on allocation.”

As we finish our visit to the UK,  I realize my window on English and Welsh wines has been opened by a couple of inches only.  There is clearly much more to learn and appreciate to get the full view of this industry.

History indicates that vineyards were first established in Britain during the 300 years of Roman occupation.    Organizations such as the Royal Academy of Arts,  Fairyhill and others are providing wine lovers with the opportunity to taste contemporary English and Welsh wines. They are increasingly getting the recognition they deserve.

References:

Royal Academy of Arts  and the Keeper’s House  Restaurant

http://www.royalacademy.org.uk

Chapel Down Winery   http://www.chapeldown.com

Davenport Winery     http://www.davenportvineyards.co.uk

Fairyhill, Reynoldston, Swansea

http://www.fairyhill.net

Ancre Hill Vineyard    www.ancrehillestates.co.uk

United Kingdom Vineyard Association  www.ukva.org.uk